Wembury to Challaborough

(Our overall day number 80 - Part of The KC3 ECP Leg 9 - Plymouth to Dartmouth)

Wembury to Challaborough

19th May 2025 | Miles 15.9 | Elevation gain 2796ft

Just under 16 miles of fabulous SWCP walking - however this day needs careful planning for ferries and tides. From Wembury we walked up and over the hill for a couple of miles to arrive at the River Yealm for the first ferry at 10am across to Noss Mayo - worth checking in advance that the ferry is running as bad weather, shortage of staff, or engine issues can mean the only alternative is a long taxi ride around the Yealm, or a 9 mile extra walk. On the day of our walk, there was an engine issue, but luckily we were able to cross on the only ferry of the day. From Noss Mayo, it's around 9 miles to Mothecombe and the Erme. There is no ferry over the Erme and it must be waded - usually an hour either side of low tide, but dependent on weather conditions and tide height. With low tide around 16.50 on the day of our walk, we were able to take our time from Noss Mayo, and arrived in plenty of time for a late lunch stop at the Schoolhouse Cafe in Mothecombe. Food inside us, we duly waded the Erme - the water was just below our knees (can be done in bare feet, but some kind of wading shoe might be advisable) - and excitement over, we dried our feet, boots back on, and set off up the beach and then back on the path. It was quite late in the day and still 4.5 miles to Challaborough, over some steep ups and downs - this felt tough at the time.
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Getting there and back
Public transport is challenging in this part of South Devon, so we did the entire section between Plymouth and Dartmouth point to point. We caught the train from Paddington to Plymouth, walked to Wembury, Challaborough, Salcombe, Beesands and finally Dartmouth. We caught the bus to Totnes and then the train back to Paddington. We used the very reliable Luggage Transfers to move our bags each day, and carried day packs. We stayed in accommodation listed in the SWCPA official guide (you get a free copy if you join the association).
Weather conditions
Wonderful sunny weather - blue skies with a light breeze - perfect walking conditions
Walking difficulty
Moderate, with plenty of ups and downs - bordering on difficult, just because of the timing constraints of the tide and ferry, the length of the day and the final 4.5 miles after The Erme at the end of the day

The story of our day in photos

Setting off from Wembury - the first 'up' of the day!
Descending towards The Yealm
The gorgeous Yealm estuary
Down towards the ferry point at Warren Point
At the ferry with other coast walkers - an engine issue meant we had over half an hour to wait
The ferry eventually limped over, on its auxiliary power, the main engine not working
View back down The Yealm from Noss Mayo
Little diversion just a few yards from the ferry at Noss Mayo
Approaching The Erme
Wading The Erme needs a bit of forward planning and research of tide times (and heights) - the water is deeper on a neap tide
Approaching the wading point with some excitement!
Getting our wading shoes on - might have been able to do this bare foot but we opted for the soft option!
Nearly ready!
Here we go!
Not as deep as we thought!
!!😍
Excitement over- heading off up the beach to rejoin the path
Low tide at The Erme
Still some ups and downs to do to reach Challaborough
Burgh Island - Challaborough and Bigbury in the distance
Yup - this looks like it's going to be tiring at the end of a long day!
That was a nasty down, usually followed by steep up!
Sure enough, now we're on the way up!
Are we nearly there?
Approaching Challaborough at last
Challaborough!
Useful links
The Boatyard@ The Beershack, Plymouth
Outside bar overlooking the water, near Plymouth Hoe - fell in here for a drink just after arrival from the train down. It's part of The Corinthian next door (but separate entrance off the street)
The Waterfront, Plymouth
Venue for dinner on our first night - the mussels were a highlight, and the fish and chips were great
The Three Crowns, Plymouth
Down by the marina, we had a post-dinner visit here on a very busy Saturday night, good buzz, absolutely heaving
Mount Batten Bar, Plymouth
Stopped for an opportune drink here around lunchtime on day one after 7 miles - well positioned for that purpose!
Eddystone Inn, Heybrook Bay
Made a planned stop here for Sunday lunch on day one - no options to eat in Wembury on a Sunday evening at the time of our walk. Glad we did, as this might be one of the best pub Sunday lunch we've ever had , and we ate it in the sun, outside, overlooking the sea!
The Odd Wheel, Wembury
Had a couple of pints here on our first evening - nice place, though it was up yet another hill from our B&B, which is already up from the path!
The School House, Mothecombe
Great place to stop while waiting for tide to be right at The Erme. Best mushroom pizza ever consumed.
Fryer Tucks, Challaborough
We had take away fish and chips, but you can sit in. Very welcoming, fab fish and chips, and even had a pint of Salcombe IPA in the sun overlooking the bay while waiting for food to be cooked!
Bigbury Baykery
On the way out of Challaborough, we came across a van with a lady offering cinnamon buns! We couldn't resist - her sourdough bread looked amazing as well!
Cottage Hotel, Hope Cove
We had a drink and great lunch on the balcony overlooking Hope Cove - everyone was very welcoming! Make the effort to walk the extra few steps up the hill.
Bo's Beach Cafe, South Sands, Salcombe
Very welcome little bar right on the beach after our long stretch from Hope Cove to Salcombe. Had originally planned to stop at the South Sands Hotel but it looked much too posh for our sweaty tired needs - not sure they'd have welcomed us anyway and we'd take Bo's anytime!
The Fortescue Inn, Salcombe
Collapsed into here for a tired dinner at the end of our long third day - normal pub food, some other places looked more upmarket, but this suited us given our situation
The Kings Arms, Salcombe
Popped in here for a pint after dinner on our first night - this is the one that was more upmarket! The restaurant looked great, we enjoyed our pint.
The Pasty Shack, Salcombe
Had a take away pasty for lunch on our day off - very tasty!
The Ferry Inn, Salcombe
Had a couple of lunchtime drinks here on our day off in Salcombe (also celebrating a birthday so that's our excuse) - a few old memories, as Salcombe was a childhood holiday destination
Cranches Sweet Shop, Salcombe
It's been there for years and years, try the fudge and the bonbons!
dickandwills Waterside Grill and Bar, Salcombe
Very nice restaurant for a birthday celebration. Started with cocktails overlooking the harbour and then inside for lovely food, and more wine
Victoria Inn, Salcombe
More drinks after dinner on our day off, to complete the collection of Salcombe pubs.
The Bake House, Salcombe
Purchased pasties and sausage rolls here, morning of our fourth day walking. Not sure these beat the pasties from the previous day, but The Bake House was open at the time we wanted to buy pasties, so that made it perfect!!
The Cricket Inn, Beesands
Perfect place in Beesands! Right on the path, and we completed the full set - a couple of beers outside as we arrived (complete with dolphin sighting!), then checked into to very nice accommodation, had a lovely dinner, a comfortable sleep, and the best full english of the trip the following morning. One stop for everything and no reason to go anywhere else!!
Blackpool Sands Cafe
Despite the name, this is a lovely beach on the path from Beesands to Dartmouth. Only stopped for a diet coke, but the food options looked attractive.
Dartmouth Castle Tea Rooms
Opportunistic ice cream stop, just a mile or so from the end of the walk, and they stamped our little book!
Embankment Bistro, Dartmouth
Celebrated completing the walk here with a couple of beers in the sun on arrival in Dartmouth
Bar 1620, Dartmouth
Had pre-dinner cocktails here on our last night
Bayards Cove Inn, Dartmouth
Location for our final night dinner - couldn't resist the fish and chips
The Crab, Dartmouth
Post dinner drink here on our final night - after all we could sleep on the train on the way home!
The Yealm Ferry
Link to the Yealm Ferry site, with timetables and prices
SWCPA info on ferries and estuaries
Full guide to what to expect and how to cross
How to cross The Erme
South Devon National Landscape video on crossing the Erme estuary
Avon to Bantham Ferry
Timetable and prices for getting across The Avon near Bigbury
NCI Prawle Point
Ate our pasties here on day 4. Popped in to speak to the coastguard, who was very helpful in describing the rest of our route, and who kindly stamped our little book!