Braunton to Hartland Quay

KC3 ECP Leg Number 4b

Overview
Date started:
19th May 2023
Date completed:
23rd May 2023
Official miles:
45.0
Miles we actually walked:
45.0
Guest walkers
Second timers Pete & Ellie, and regular guest walker Ani The Dog
We walked 45 miles from Braunton to Hartland Quay, initially along the Tarka Trail, a path shared with cyclists and described by some SWCP affiionados as ‘boring’ – not a view shared by us as the views across the tidal estuaries of the River Taw and River Torridge were fabulous and ever changing. The path runs from Braunton to Barnstaple, then onto Instow and Bideford, around the stunning Northam Burrows to Westward Ho! From there on it’s proper South West Coast Path with sharp climbs up and down steep wooded valleys, culminating in a few miles on the Hobby Drive to Clovelly. Leaving Clovelly, the first section is in wooded cliff tops, opening out after a few miles onto open cliff tops with good walking and great views. At Hartland Point, the path changes direction towards the south, and the section from Hartland Point to Hartland Quay is characterised by spectacular rock formations, wild scenery and a feeling of remoteness. After completing the trip, on arriving back to pick up our car at Clovelly, we also walked down and up the very steep slope to visit this lovely village - the path itself passes above the village, just below the visitor centre.
Day by day
Day 1 – Instow to Appledore (<-->)
19th May 2023
Miles 7.1 | Elevation gain 344ft
Map of Day 1
Day 2 – Braunton to Instow
20th May 2023
Miles 12.0 | Elevation gain 186ft
Map of Day 2
Day 3 – Westward Ho! to Clovelly
21st May 2023
Miles 11.5 | Elevation gain 3394ft
Map of Day 3
Day 4 – Appledore to Westward Ho!
22nd May 2023
Miles 4.4 | Elevation gain 92ft
Map of Day 4
Day 5 – Clovelly to Hartland Quay
23rd May 2023
Miles 10.0 | Elevation gain 2726ft
Map of Day 5
How we approached this leg
We took five days to complete this section, including a semi-rest day 4 between the two big climbing days. We also went somewhat out of order, and did one section in the wrong direction (clockwise rather than anti-clockwise). Mainly driven by logistics, not our preference! We arrived in Appledore early afternoon, and immediately set off to walk the 7 miles around the Torridge Estuary to Instow, where we had a pint and caught the ferry back to Appledore. On day 2 we caught the bus to Braunton, walked the 12 miles back to Instow, and, after a very nice dinner in Instow, once again caught the ferry back to Appledore. On day 3 we left one car in Clovelly at the Visitor Centre Car Park, drive the other back to Westward Ho!, and walked the 11.5 miles back to Clovelly. On our semi-rest day 4, we walked just over 4 miles from Appledore round the Northam Burrows, on the spectacular beach and into Westward Ho! On our final day 5, we again used two cars, leaving one at Hartland Quay, taking the other back to Clovelly, and then completing the 10 mile walk back.
Where we stayed
We based ourselves in Appledore for this trip - a lovely scenic village with views over the tidal estuary. By using the Instow-Appledore ferry, we were able to have dinner over in Instow one evening.
Useful links
Hocking Ice Cream Van, Bideford
Ice cream van in Bideford, a welcome refreshment and very cheery fellow
The Quay Inn, Instow
Pub near the ferry to Appledore, we popped in here at the end of our first day's walking, before catching the ferry back.
The Royal George, Appledore
We had dinner here on our first evening, good food with views over the water.
Waterside Cafe, near Braunton
Popped up on the path as we rounded a corner, an ideal stop for morning coffee on day 2.
Fremington Quay Cafe
We stopped here for ice cream and coffee here on the afternoon of our second day - it's around 4.5 miles to Instow from here
The Sundown Bar at the Commodore Hotel, Instow
A refreshing drink here at the end of a long day's walking, to while away some time before our dinner reservation in Instow. Think this is a pop up bar and pizza in the front car park of the hotel. The link is to the hotel itself, which we didn't visit.
The Boathouse Instow
Fabulous dinner here on the upstairs terrace in the early evening sunshine before catching the ferry back to Appledore. The food was delicious!
The Seagate Hotel, Appledore
Our dinner spot for Sunday Lunch on the evening of day 3 - we then returned on the evening of day 5 for fish and chips!
The Pig On The Beach, Westward Ho!
A quick pint here following our shorter walk on day 4 from Appledore to Westward Ho! We didn't eat here, as we were saving ourselves for pasties!
Bessy's Pasties, Westward Ho!
Fab bakery, pasties on the beachfront at Westward Ho! for lunch on day 4 after our walk from Appledore
Market Street Kitchen, Appledore
Afternoon tea with scones, clotted cream and jam in the delightful garden at the back of this cafe
The Beaver Inn, Appledore
Visited late afternoon on our semi-rest day 4, mainly for the crazy golf and cider!
The Flame Factory, Appledore
We had dinner here to finish off our semi-rest day 4, lovely pizzas and burgers, well worth a visit
Cafe Hartland, Hartland Point
Just a kiosk really, but incredibly welcome after 7.5 miles of upping and downing from Clovelly. More scones, cream and jam. The first and only refreshment stop on the stretch from Clovelly to Hartland Quay, so it's popular with SWCP walkers, mostly arriving around lunchtime - for timely service, it's a good idea to be the first arrival, not the last!
Hartland Quay Hotel
Some very welcome drinks here at the end of the walk from Clovelly on day 5!
The Red Lion, Clovelly
Just a quick stroll down the hill into Clovelly for a drink after picking up the car at the end of day 5. Then a tired climb back up the hill to the car park!
Appledore-Instow ferry
This ferry only runs for a couple of hours either side of high tide so it's important to check the timetable!
Clovelly Visitor Centre
Information about visiting Clovelly
South West Coast Path in North Devon
Link to the excellent South West Coast Path site, North Devon section, covering this stretch